This article is part of our Nutrition + Dining series. Here we explore holistic health topics and share favorite dishes from aligned restaurants.
Our latest “most antioxidant-rich meal" was at L'Atelier l'Art des Mets in Les Taillades, Provence, France.
Our culinary and cycling adventure in the Luberon, Provence was a dream. Putting the Healthy Anywhere platform and standards to the test – we evaluated hundreds of candidate restaurants to surface the Top 33 places for healthy, sustainable, and delicious eats in the Luberon. (See related article at the bottom of this page)
L’Atelier l’Art des Mets in Taillades was on our finalist list – and it did not disappoint!
In fact, our meal at L’Atelier des Mets offered the most antioxidants consumed in one setting in a long while!
Their secret? Weeds.
Fresh, edible weeds are woven into every dish on the menu. These wild plants and flowers are all carefully foraged by the Chef himself.
Talk about fresh and hyper-local!
And incredibly delicious.
Chef Romain Dumas channels his passion for wild plants into culinary creations at L’Atelier des Mets.
Chef Romain and his wife Peggy welcome you to their great offering and labor of love.
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L'Atelier des Mets in the Luberon: a Hidden gem and Surprising Revelation
Don’t be fooled by the unassuming location and quirky surrounds. (You may think, “wait, am I pulling up in their driveway?!” Why yes, and it’s all part of the charm…)
You’re in for a treat either way.
Chef Romain’s deep passion for presenting “forgotten flavors” and transforming wild plants into deliciousness on your plate … is evident from the very first sip of green gazpacho, down to the last bite of Melissa-infused ice cream, or taste of herbal tea.
We’re ever grateful to Chef Romain and Peggy for offering their time to discuss our questions in great detail.
If you’re curious about foraging, wild plants, or edible flowers, then you won’t want to miss Chef Romain’s best practices, tips, and stories below!
Interview with Chef Romain Dumas of L'Atelier, l'Art des Mets in Les Taillades, France (Luberon, Provence)
Q: What prompted Romain to study herbs and medicinal plants? Why is Romain so passionate about wild herbs?
More than 10 years ago my wife gifted me a special birthday present including a class for “recognition of edible wild plants to cook”. It was taught by a regional forager trained by the renowned Mireille Sicard.
The scheduled 90-minute walk was supposed to cover no more than ten plants… But I was enamored at once. We stayed with Nadine, the trainer, for 3 hours and saw more than 17 edible wild plants — each one with such different tastes.
At that moment I knew that I would like to bring nature into my dishes to season them and make the taste buds of customers twirl with forgotten flavors.
A few years later when we opened our restaurant, I knew that edible wild plants would be there to season my dishes.
I wished to discover plants our grandmothers collected and used in their cooking and to define my personal touch.
It was also a practical (and sustainable) solution, as I realized I could find plants all year round.
Q: Why should we include herbs and wild plants in our diet? What are the biggest benefits?
Wild plants will season your dishes with their power of taste: salty and even sweet without using spices.
Of course, there are many medicinal benefits for plants, but I did not study that per se. My interests have always been for taste and culinary treasure.
Nature is a treasure, it must be respected and protected. Nature is also a great teacher – we must listen to her.
We work to forage and prepare our ingredients to show our customers how beautiful and magical nature is.
Q: How do you get your wild herbs? What conditions are you looking for when looking for wild herbs?
I go foraging for wild plants and herbs at least 3 times a week in the Luberon – including spots in Cavaillon, Les Taillades, Lagnes, Ménerbes, and more.
I always respect nature while foraging. I will only pick when a plant is in full bloom. And even then, there are additional considerations.
First, the foraging must occur in a ‘healthy’ location. Never forage or pick next to a road or near fields treated with chemicals or pesticides. I also never touch plants where cattle or herds have passed.
As a rule of thumb, you should always first sample and taste the plant to decide if and what great dish could be made with it. And never remove the roots of the plant. Only touch the tops so it can regenerate.
Chef Romain’s Rules for foraging edible plants:
- Always taste and sample before picking.
- Always and only pick from a plant that’s in full bloom.
- Always leave the plant’s roots in tact.
- Never pick near a road or near land that’s been sprayed with pesticides, herbicides, insecticides, etc.
Foraging doesn’t come without its risks…
Some of Chef’s Romain’s more memorable foraging moments have involved encounters with wildlife, such as wild boar, and snakes!
And of course – at all times, you must be 100% certain of what you’re picking and have expert knowledge to identify the correct plants.
Chef Romain emphasizes there is ZERO margin for error in foraging!
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Q: What herbs are most surprising to Customers? What have been your customers' favorites?
Mugwort has a bitter taste when tasted raw, and once infused, gives off a fresh and fragrant taste.
Customers are surprised to see poppies on their plate, “stinging” nettle, sweet clover with its powerful aromas and such a delicate taste, and fresh wild oregano that has nothing to do with the one on the pizza…
Customers looking for “wild dishes” will love the nettle soup, wild plants, and pan-fried foie gras nuggets, the chef’s style Iranian cake, the sea bass from the creeks with comfrey and borage, the chicken supreme with mugwort and lemon, baba with thyme, Genoa bread with wild mint, rice pudding with sweet clover. Our menu is ever-evolving!
Q: What advice would you give to an aspiring forager or Chef wanting to incorporate wild plants?
You must take the time to study with an expert, trained person and carefully study to be sure of the plants you collect. We have no room for error or doubts about any of the plants we collect and consume! They must be authenticated.
You should always taste the plants, because the taste can vary from one picking to another in intensity of taste. And experiment in order to know how to balance your dish so that nothing takes over, and find harmony and balance to sublimate the products.
We hope you enjoyed this journey into the enchanting village of Les Taillades, Provence, France. Our culinary journey led us to a hidden gem that embodies the essence of healthy, sustainable, and delicious eating – L’Atelier l’Art des Mets. This restaurant nestled in the heart of Luberon proved to be a surprising revelation, offering a dining experience brimming with creativity and flavor.
Chef Romain Dumas, with his profound passion for wild plants and herbs, infuses each plate with forgotten flavors and vibrant local ingredients.
So, whether you find yourself drawn in by the unassuming charm of the location or intrigued by the aromatic wonders awaiting you, a visit to L’Atelier des Mets promises not just a meal but a journey through flavors and experiences that celebrate the very best of Provence’s culinary heritage. Join us in exploring the world of wild plants, sustainable dining, and the magic of Chef Romain’s creations – a testament to the artistry of food and nature’s boundless treasures.
Where have you enjoyed freshly foraged dishes? Let us know in the Comments at the bottom of this page!
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